The handout from Sally Biggers' presentation on The Gentle Art of Tatting.
Handy Hands is a company dedicated to the art of tatting and related needle arts. Founded in 1990 on a foundation of outstanding customer service HHTATTING.COM has continued to grow in both reputation and extensive line of products offered. These include Lizbeth and Lizbeth Metallic threads as well as many other brands of threads, all in a stunning array of colors. HHtatting.com offers five types of shuttles of their own as well as those of other manufacturers. Accessories and numerous books on tatting are also found on their website and in their catalog.
Not All Threads are Equal
When selecting a thread, consider your project. Is it a table topper, an heirloom-to-be or other decorative piece that may be precious to the next generation? Or is it a small project that isn’t handled or washed much?
It is important to consider the thread quality especially when you factor in the time and energy it takes to make a project.
Thread size relates to thickness. For more information on thread size refer to the Guide to Thread Size page.
What Makes a High Quality Thread?
There are a few points to consider when factoring in the quality of the thread. Here are a few considerations:
- Quality of Cotton - The longer the cotton fiber the higher quality it is. The longest fibers (Egyptian cottons) are 1.5”-2” long and make top quality threads. Cottons from India and Asia are less than 1” and because of this short staple length produce a weaker thread.
- Number of Cords - Typically, most thread consists of two-cords, three-cords or six-cords (cordonnet). In general, the more cords a thread strand has the stronger and more durable it is. However, this is only true when comparing thread that is made of the same quality of cotton.
Two-cord threads, such as pearl cottons, are considered the softest thread and have more “fuzz.”
Three-cord threads, such as Cebelia, are soft and have less “fuzz.”
Six-cord (cordonnet) threads, such as Lizbeth and DMC Cordonnet, are considered the highest quality thread. This thread typically holds it body the best and is a strong, firm thread. It is more suitable for heirlooms, hardworking wearables, and decorative designs. This is not the same as a six-strand embroidery floss, which is designed to be separated into individual plies.
- Mercerization - In the manufacturing process, cotton thread that is mercerized is treated with a caustic solution under tension, which causes the fibers to swell and become more lustrous. This strengthens the thread and improves the receptiveness to the dyeing process. Mercerized cotton holds its color well, and is almost always colorfast.
- Gas-singed - When holding a piece of thread up to the light, you will notice “fuzz” along the strand. This is a common feature to all cotton threads. However, some brands have more noticeable fuzz than others. One way to reduce the amount of fuzz is a manufacturing process called gas-singing, where the thread is passed very quickly through a gas flame to singe away these fine fiber ends. It does not completely eliminate all of these “fuzz” ends, but reduces the amount of them. This results in a more uniformed strand of cotton.
Below is a chart listing thread quality based on number of cords:
Resources and References
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csXosoQvl8I&list=PLA5liBLxM7J1JBoWNFMq1RNZulzDwTHxG&index=8 How to do 18th Century Knotting (part 1) &
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcCBGMjzbSI&list=PLA5liBLxM7J1JBoWNFMq1RNZulzDwTHxG&index=9 (part 2) by Florencia Moore
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMAewCsGNOQ&list=PLA5liBLxM7J1JBoWNFMq1RNZulzDwTHxG&index=13 Recreating tatting from 1790 by Bryce Adams
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcvjQZzoLwI&list=PLA5liBLxM7J1JBoWNFMq1RNZulzDwTHxG&index=10 Knotting: the Royal hobby you’ve never heard of by Song Spinner
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvPjMNQnY3s&t=2s Tying a netting knot
https://twinrocks.com/legends/dieties/spider-woman.html Legend of the Spider Woman
https://legendarymythology.com/the-discovery-of-flax-guerber/ Legend of Flax
VIDEOS USED IN THIS PRESENTATION
https://youtu.be/fMcRgnyrh4g?si=Tnj6r_Vx0XL0xHMohttps://youtu.be/fMcRgnyrh4g?si=Tnj6r_Vx0XL0xHMo Tatting a Ring with a Shuttle
https://youtu.be/aq0_Nqab-t8?si=aBTNlcFqyCpzXdub Basic Tatting Short version
https://youtu.be/cNk8ZIMjcFk?si=lyGZNmYXVBO3vUGW Simple Ring and Chain Project using a tapestry needle
https://youtu.be/nwgBitMzY2g?si=ETWiApnwx63XBi2j Tatting a ring using a modern tatting needle
Tatting Timeline:
1739 – German comprehensive lexion Der sich selbst und andere lehrende Haus-Vatter (The House-Father, Teaching Himself and Others), penned by Christlieb von Cohausen who in this work references a description of “shuttle lace,” as an ornamental knotted cord craft using an elongated, narrow shuttle” so as to differentiate it from needle or bobbin laces.
1790 – first portrait that shows tatting rather than knotting – The portrait of Jacob Feitama and his wife Elisabeth de Haan by Weybrand Hendrix housed in the Hague in Rotterdam, The Netherlands PHOTO
1790 through 1840’s – First industrial revolution that revolved around mechanization of the spinning of cotton, linen, silk and wool threads, gas-singing of fabric threads and mercerization of cotton threads. What differences these processes made
1842 – first mention in “The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting and Crochet Work”
1843 – “The Ladies’ Hand-Book of Millinery, Dressmaking and Tatting; with Plain Instructions for Making the Most Useful Articles of Dress and Attire” actually addressed uses of the knotwork in everyday uses
1844 – The First Industrial Exhibition was held in France and did display several examples of tatting, according to records of the event
1850 – Eleonore Riego published her first of 11 tatting instruction book(let)s. QUOTE HERE Also the image showing hand position but no shuttle
1850’s – became more widespread in USA
1860’s – William Morris began the Arts and Crafts movement in England to promote traditional craftsmanship and design over the industrialization of mass-produced items thus promoting a connection between arts and everyday life.
1862 – Cornellia Mee and Mary Austin published their pamphlet on Tatting QUOTE
1865 – Bath Tatting Book
1870 - Beeton’s Book of Needlework
1886 - Therese de Dilmont “Tatting” for “Encyclopedia of Needlework” for DMC Library.
- · These later authors such as Mrs. Cornelia Mee and Miss Austin, Therese de Dilmot took tatting further by adding innovative techniques such as use of two shuttles in tatting, creating the half ring, split rings and split chains (elements which reduced the numbers of cutting and re-tying the threads), Josephine Rings (decorative elements), cluny and block tatting to create more solid elements, as well as introducing the use of colors other than white and off-white (and occasionally black). double half-hitch knots (also known as the Lark’s head, clove-hitch, cow-hitch, sailor’s, fisherman’s or lashing knot) SHOW THIS KNOT HERE
1860’s through 1880’s – many “household guides” were being published around all or nearly all of the countries in which tatting or its equivalent is found. These mentioned or described this craft in one way or another included descriptions, details of technique and / or patterns.
1895 – The pattern design company Butterick published a book of tatting and netting patterns.
1900 – 1940 – Appears to be the heyday of tatting around the world with many books and pamphlets published or promoted by not only pattern companies such as Butterick, Needlecraft, Ltd, but also thread manufacturers such as American Thread, Spool Cotton Co, Star Cotton Co, Lily Threads, Corticelli Silk Mills, Richardson’s Silk Co., Collingbourne Mills, J. M. Coats, Coats and Clark and many others large and small. Individuals such as Mary Fitch, Emma Farms, Jessie M. Dewitt (The Priscilla Books), Anna Valiere, Marie Antoinette Hees, Emmy Leibert (Germany) and Frau Eleanor Endrucks (Germany) as well as groups such as various Art Institutes around the world, The [English] Royal Society and many more also published pattern books
1909 – Revival of Tatting especially in the United States
1910 – Lady Katherin Hoare and Her Majesty Queen Elisabeth of Romania (Carmen Sylva), Both of English Descent, collaborated on a work entitled “The Art of Tatting” which included the Lady Hoare shuttle and images (photographs) but offered no patterns
1913 – Anne C. Orr became the Editor of Southern Women’s Magazine in Nashville, TN and subsequently began publishing her own patterns independently before going on to become the Needlework Editor for Good Housekeeping in 1921. She published many books both under her own name and for thread manufacturers. They covered techniques including tatting, crochet, filet crochet and knitting
1935 – Aunt Martha’s Workbasket, Home and Needlecraft for Pleasure and Profit began as a service bulletin by John and Clara Tillotson in Kansas City, Missouri as a response in recognition of the needs of the American people has coming out of the Great Depression. This publication provided patterns for sewing, quilting, crochet, knitting and tatting as well as recipes and gardening tips at a time when having to provide for one’s self was often the primary way to fill daily needs. In 1942 the name was changed to simply “The Workbasket” and color plates were introduced. In 1990 it was sold to KC Publishing but continues today as Michaels Create!
1950’s - Introduction of synthetic thread materials.
1941 – Dover Books / Publications – rose to meet the demand for Out-of-Print and hard to find books including those for niche markets such as woodworking, needle working and other hand crafts.
1970’s – the Back to the Land movement renewed interest in many fiber arts.
1990’s – the introduction of the Internet, individual web-pages and a platform to allow crafters around the world to connect in greater numbers.
